Exotics Hardwood Floors: 5/16” Solid Exotic Installation Instructions

Beautiful, exotic hardwood floors are natural products and as a result are not perfect. All of the floors Exotics™ manufactures are in accordance with industry standards, which allow a defect tolerance (natural or manufacturing) not to exceed 5%.

OWNER/INSTALLATION TECHNICIAN RESPONSIBILITIES:

• When the flooring is ordered, a minimum of 5% (recommended 7% - 10%) must be added to the actual square footage to allow for overage (cutting) and selection (grading) allowance.
• Before any hardwood flooring is installed, the installer must make sure that the job-site environment and the condition of the sub-surface involved meet or exceed the standards and recommendations as outlined in the SUB·FLOOR and JOB SITE PREPARATION sections below.
• The owner/installation technician assumes final responsibility for inspecting product quality. Carefully examine each board for quality, color, and finish prior to installation – using reasonable selectivity to hold out or cut off pieces with defects. If an individual piece is doubtful as to grade, color, or finish, the installer should not install that piece.
• Correcting a minor defect during installation using filler, stain, or a putty stick is a normal procedure.

TOOLS AND/OR ACCESSORIES NEEDED: STAPLE-DOWN METHOD

WARNING: Exotics™ is not responsible for damage caused by negligent installation practices or misuse of installation tools. It is CRITICAL to use the proper adapters as well as the right staples and/or cleats. If the wrong machine, fastener, or air pressure is used, it can severely damage the flooring.

• Broom  
• Pencil               
• Tape Measure
• Moisture Meter
• Safety Equipment (Goggles and Mask)
• Circular or Hand Saw; Miter or Table Saw
• Chalk Line and Chalk
• Hammer; Rubber Mallet (Light Colored)
• Pry Bar
• Nail Punch
• Utility Knife
• 15 lb. Asphalt Saturated Felt
• Duct Tape
• Pneumatic Brad-Nailer with 1” brads OR Drill Bit 4d-6d Screw Shank Nails
• 1” Glue Coated Staples
• 5/16” Stapling Machine  (or other machines suited SPECIFICALLY for 5/16” Solid Floors)
• Senco SLS20HF
• Stanley-Bostitch S32SXBHF
• Hardwood Flooring Cleaner

TOOLS AND/OR ACCESSORIES NEEDED: GLUE-DOWN METHOD

NOTES ON GLUEDOWN INSTALLATION: Exotics'™ 5/16” Exotic Solids require the use of a moisture cured urethane hardwood adhesive. Do not use water based adhesives with these products. Also – regarding installation on concrete floors: wood floors can cup or buckle when penetrated by moisture. This moisture can come from one or both of these locations: the sub-floor, or the surrounding environment. To address environmental moisture penetration Exotics™ provides acclimation instructions below and strongly advises to keep these products in controlled conditions with humidity within the 35-55% range. As far as the sub-floor moisture is concerned, it is VITAL that the concrete is within safe moisture parameters (determined via moisture test).

• Broom  
• Pencil               
• Tape Measure
• Moisture Meter
• Safety Equipment (Goggles and Mask)
• Circular or Hand Saw; Miter or Table Saw
• Chalk Line and Chalk
• Hammer; Rubber Mallet (Light Colored)
• Pry Bar
• Hardwood Flooring Cleaner
• Trowel
• Bostik’s Best (Urethane-Based Adhesive) – for concrete or wood sub-floors
• Bostik’s BST Urethane (Urethane-Based Adhesive) – for concrete or wood sub-floors
• Urethane Adhesive Remover (if none is available, a mineral spirits and a terry cloth will help remove excess urethane adhesive from the hardwood)
• 3-M Blue Painter’s Tape

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: STAPLEDOWN AND GLUEDOWN

STEP 1: Pre-Installation Jobsite Inspection

Prior to installation, the building must be structurally complete and enclosed. All exterior windows and doors must be installed. Any “wet” work inside the house (masonry, drywall, and paint) must also be complete – allowing adequate drying time to eliminate unnecessary moisture content within the building. Concrete should be at least 60 days old.

Permanent HVAC (heating/air conditioning) systems must be operating for at least 14 days before installation, maintaining a constant room temperature between 60-75 degrees Fahrenheit and a relative humidity of 35-55%.

Exterior drainage – including gutters and downspouts, must be in place and drain away from the building.

Exotics™ 5/16” Solid Exotic floors can only be installed on or above grade and are not recommended in full bathrooms.

Basements and crawl spaces must be dry. Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 24” from the ground to the underside of the joists. A vapor barrier (6-8 mil black polyethylene film) must be put in crawl spaces with joints overlapped and taped.
Sub-floors must be checked for moisture content using the appropriate metering device for concrete or wood. Examples of concrete moisture meters that work very well: the Delmhorst Moisture Meter Model G and the Tramex Concrete Encounter.

Performing Moisture Tests:
WOOD SUBSTRATES: Test the moisture of the wood sub-floor using a calibrated moisture meter approved for testing wood moisture according to the meter manufacturer. The reading should not exceed 14%, or read more than 5% different than the moisture content of the product being installed.

CONCRETE SUBSTRATES: There are multiple ways to test for excess moisture in concrete.

• Use an approved, calibrated moisture meter such as the Delmhorst Moisture Meter Model G or the Tramex Concrete Encounter. On the Tramex Concrete Encounter Meter, moisture readings should not exceed 4.5 on the upper scale.
• Perform a Polyfilm Test. Tape down 2’ x 2’ polyfilm squares (a clear garbage bag or plastic drop cloth will do) in several places on the floor. Wait 24-48 hours, then check for the appearance of condensation on the inside of the bag or plastic and for a darkening on the concrete in that area. Either occurrence signals the likely presence of excess moisture, requiring a mandatory Calcium Chloride Test.

Once you have determined the moisture content and that excess moisture is indeed present, a Calcium Chloride and pH Alkalinity Test must be performed to determine moisture emissions and alkalinity from the concrete slab.

• Perform a Calcium Chloride test (these can be found in flooring retail stores or online at www.moisturetestkit.com). The maximum acceptable reading is 3 lbs./24 hours/1000 sq. ft. for moisture emissions.
• Perform a pH Alkalinity Test (a 3% Phenolphthalein in Anhydrous alcohol solution). Chip the concrete at least ¼” deep (do not apply directly to the concrete surface) and apply several drops of the solution to the chipped area. If any color change occurs, further testing is required. Using the number method on the test, a pH reading of 6-9 on a pH scale of 1-14 is considered acceptable.

If the tests results exceed this number, the concrete slab should be sealed with an appropriate sealer, such as Bostik’s MVP4 (Moisture Vapor Protection) Sealer, prior to installation.

STEP 2: Storing the Material Prior to Installation

Once the building meets the above conditions, the material can be delivered to the site. Handle and unload the flooring with care and store within the area in which it is expected to perform.

Flooring stored on concrete floors should be elevated at least four inches to allow circulation under the cartons.

Exotics™ 5/16” Solid Exotic flooring must acclimate for 72 hours prior to installation.

STEP 3: Recommended Sub-floor Types (Wood and Concrete)

Staple-Down or Glue-Down:

• Minimum: APA Approved 5/8” (15mm) CDX Grade Plywood; minimum 40 lb. density
• Preferred: ¾” (19mm) CDX Grade Plywood or ¾” (23/32”) OSB Underlayment Grade (PS2 Rated) on 16” center floor joists properly nailed
• Existing wood floors (installed perpendicular to new floor)
• Resilient Tile or Vinyl

WARNING: Do not staple over particle-board or radiant heat sub-floors!

WHEN STAPLING: Using improper adapters and pressure settings can cause severe damage to the flooring while using a staple-down installation. Using the correct adapter and pressure will set the staple correctly in the tongue. Air pressures set too high can cause damage to the tongue, putting blisters on the face of the flooring and making it difficult to install adjoining boards. Perfect PSI on the compressor is usually 80 PSI. A good test is to set the pressure initially at 70 PSI and adjust it until the staple properly sets in the tongue. Basically, if the tongue is being damaged when stapling, lower the pressure. If the staples do not set properly, raise the pressure.

If you need to remove a staple that has gone in crooked, do not pull straight up from the tongue. This will damage the surface of the board. Instead, pull out the staple from the tongue at the front of the board with all pressure from the hammer’s head directed into the sub-floor.

Again, Exotics™ is not responsible for damage caused by negligent installation practices or misuse of installation tools.

Glue-Down Only:

• Concrete Slabs
• Acoustic Concrete
• Cork (acoustic)
• Ceramic, Terrazzo, Marble, or Slate
• Resilient Vinyl or Tile
• Metal

STEP 4: Preparing the Sub-floor

All Sub-floors must be:

• CLEAN: scraped, sanded, or swept; free of wax, grease, paint, oil, and other debris.
• SMOOTH/FLAT: within 3/16” in 10’ and/or 1/8” in 6’. Sand high areas or joints. Fill low areas (no more than 1/8”) with a cement type filler.

STRUCTURALLY SOUND: Replace any water-damaged, swollen or delaminated sub-flooring or underlayments, as they are unable to properly hold staples or fasteners. The sub-floor must be properly secured with screws or nails every 6 inches along joists to reduce the possibility of squeaking after installation. It is normal for mechanically (staple) fastened floors to squeak a little bit – the squeaking results from movements in the floor caused by changes in the environment of the structure. Following these instructions will help minimize these changes, but offer no guarantee that it will eliminate all squeaks.

• DRY: Moisture content of sub-floor must not exceed 14% prior to installation of wood flooring. All moisture testing must be done before wood has been acclimated 72 hours and job-site requirements met.

STEP 5: Installing the Floor

GENERAL TIPS:

• Open several different cartons and mix the pieces to maximize the color and shade variations.
• Install the product parallel to the longest wall to provide the most appealing visual effect.
• Stagger the ends of the boards at least 6” in adjacent rows for a more appealing overall look.
• Allowing for a ½” minimum expansion gap around all vertical obstructions is CRITICAL! Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. Wood will buckle and/or cup if an adequate expansion space is not allowed for. ALWAYS allow for expansion space when making cuts around or beside vertical objects (i.e. walls, pipes, etc.).

DOORWAY/WALL PREPARATION:

• Undercut or notch-out door casings 1/16” higher than the thickness of the floor being installed.
• Remove existing base and shoe molding on wall as well as doorway thresholds. These can be reapplied after the installation is complete.

ESTABLISH A STARTING POINT: STAPLE-DOWN AND GLUE-DOWN
An exterior wall is usually the straightest and best reference line to start the installation from. If possible, the direction of the flooring being installed should be at right angles to the floor joists. Establish a starting line by leaving a minimum 1/2” expansion gap around all vertical obstructions. In at LEAST 2 places, measure out equal distances from the starting wall. It is recommended to measure 3-1/8” out from the starting wall and 12” – 18” in from the corners. Mark these points and snap a working chalk line parallel to the starting wall allowing the required expansion space between the starting wall and the edge of the first row of flooring.

INSTALLING THE VAPOR BARRIER: STAPLE-DOWN INSTALLATION ONLY

• Install 15 lb. Asphalt Saturated Felt Paper on the wood sub-floor prior to installation – roll out the material in the same direction as the flooring will be installed; allowing the Felt Paper to extend 3” – 4” up the walls.
• Position the Felt Paper so that the chalk line can be seen clearly (you may need to cut the Felt Paper back from the wall just enough to see it).
• Staple or tape at the corners to hold the Felt Paper in position.
• Butt the edges of the Felt Paper together and use Duct Tape to seal the seams.

NOTE: While 15 lb. Asphalt Saturated Felt Paper is an excellent vapor barrier, it is NOT considered a moisture barrier. If a moisture barrier is needed, a 6 mil polyethylene film is required – with the edges overlapped 18” and taped.

INSTALLING THE FIRST ROWS: STAPLE-DOWN INSTALLATION ONLY

• Make sure to use the straightest, longest boards available when installing the first two rows.
• Line up the tongue of the first row with the starting point chalk line. The groove of the boards should be facing the starting wall.
• Using a pneumatic brad nailer, face-nail the groove side of the boards (first row only) ½” from the edge at 6” intervals and 1” – 2” from each end; then at a 45 degree angle down through the nailing pocket on top of the tongue. Another option is to pre-drill the face-nail holes ½” from the groove edge of the first row, 1” – 2” from each end, and at 6” intervals. Pre-drill at the same intervals at a 45 degree angle down through the nailing pocket on top of the tongue. Face-nail the groove side where it is pre-drilled. When the face-nailing is complete, blind-nail at a 45 degree angle using 4d or 6d nails. Countersink all nails to ensure the next boards install smoothly. Make sure to use a nail set to countersink the nails – failure to do so can damage the surface of the wood. Keep blind-nailing the following rows until the stapler can be used.
• As listed above in General Tips, make sure the end-joints of adjacent rows are staggered at least 6” to have a more appealing overall look (which is called a “stair-step” pattern).

INSTALLING THE REST OF THE FLOOR: STAPLE-DOWN INSTALLATION ONLY

• Make sure you are using the correct staple gun, adapter, fasteners, and PSI setting on the compressor.
• Practice installing on an extra piece of wood. Check for any damage to the board (surface damage, tongue damage, etc.). Make any adjustments and corrections BEFORE you start installing the rest of the floor. Once you have made your adjustments, destroy the “practice” board.
• REMINDER: Use several different cartons at the same time – mixing the colors and shades while installing to get a more favorable overall look. Also, remember to stagger the end-joints of adjacent rows at least 6” to create a more appealing look for the floor.
• Begin installing with several different rows at a time, securing each board with at least two fasteners. To avoid splitting the board, put the fasteners 3” – 4” apart and 1” – 2” from the ends. Make sure you press firmly together before fastening to eliminate gaps between the boards.
• The last one or two rows will need to be installed similar to the first two rows. They will need to be face-nailed where blind-nailing is not possible. Brad-nail or pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side matching the nailing pattern used in the first row.
• The final row should be ripped to size and face-nailed. If it is less than 1” wide, it should be glued to the previous row BEFORE that row is installed and the two joined pieces should be face-nailed as one board.

INSTALLING WITH ADHESIVE: GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION ONLY

• Use only the correct adhesive. Exotics™ recommends Bostik’s Best or Bostik’s BST Urethane Adhesive. DO NOT USE WATER-BASED ADHESIVES!
• Make sure to use the appropriate trowel to get the correct coverage rate with the adhesive. It is recommended to use a V-Notch trowel with these dimensions when using a Urethane Adhesive: ¼” D x 3/16” W x ½” SP x 5/16” Foot. This trowel will leave the correct ridges of adhesive on the floor (with very little adhesive between the ridges).
• Do not apply the adhesive if the room temperature or sub-floor is colder than 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Ideally, you should be able to cover about 50 – 55 sf/gallon (called “spread rate”). Hold the trowel at a 45 – 90 degree angle firmly against the sub-floor, and spread equal amounts of adhesive in an area that can be covered in approximately 60 minutes. WARNING: Actual working time with adhesive varies depending on the environmental conditions of the structure.
• NOTE: Urethane adhesive can sometimes be difficult to clean off if you do get some on top of the hardwood you are installing. Make sure to have a Urethane Adhesive Remover or Mineral Spirits and a Terry Cloth readily available to remove excess adhesive.

INSTALLING THE REST OF THE FLOOR: GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION ONLY

• Make sure to use the straightest, longest boards available when installing the first two rows.
• Line up the groove of the first row with the starting point chalk line. The tongue of the boards should be facing the starting wall. Align and securely seat the first row in the adhesive – all additional rows will be pushed back to this row. It must be straight!
• When installing individual pieces, connect the end-joints first as close to the long tongue and groove as possible. Then slide (push) the long tongue and groove together as tightly as possible. Try to avoid sliding the pieces through the adhesive as much as possible – this will help negate memory pull-back (boards pulling apart once they are in position) and adhesive bleed-through (excess adhesive squeezing out vertically through the joints). You may need to use a scrap piece of the same product as a tapping block to help align the product.
• If the first row needs help staying in place, you can nail a board (using 1” concrete nails) on the dry side of your starting chalk line to stabilize it.
• Double check the edges and ends of your installed planks – they should all have a tight fit.
• Remember to stagger the end-joints of adjacent rows at least 6” to create a more appealing look for the floor.
• Be sure not to spread your adhesive too far ahead of your work area! If the adhesive skins over and starts to dry, preventing a proper bond between the floor and the wood, remove the old and spread new adhesive. You must have adequate adhesive transfer to ensure the floor will be installed correctly. You can double check the holding strength of the adhesive by occasionally lifting a board and checking the transfer of the adhesive.
• Once the boards are tightly fitted together, use the 3M 2090 Blue Painter’s Tape to hold the planks together while the adhesive dries. Make sure to clean any urethane adhesive off of the surface of the wood with mineral spirits or urethane adhesive remover BEFORE you apply the tape! If the adhesive dries on the surface of the wood it is VERY difficult to remove. After the installation is complete, remove all of the Blue Painter’s Tape from the surface of the flooring. Remove the tape within 24 hours. NOTE: Do not use Masking Tape! Masking tape leaves a sticky residue on the surface of the wood which is very difficult to remove.
• Continue with this method while installing the rest of the floor. Rip the final boards (last row) to fit and allow at least ½” of expansion space.

COMPLETING THE INSTALLATION: STAPLE-DOWN AND GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATIONS

• After all excess urethane adhesive and tape are removed from the floor, thoroughly clean the floor using a hardwood cleaner.
• Re-install any moldings, door trim, end caps, etc. to complete the job. Make sure to nail any moldings into the wall – do not nail molding into the floor!
• To prevent surface damage to the floor avoid rolling heavy appliances and furniture across it. Use cardboard, plywood, or airlifts if possible.

GENERAL TIPS: FLOOR REPAIR

• If the floor becomes scratched or dinged, it can be repaired with a putty, filler, or touch-up kit. If a board is severely damaged, it may need to be replaced, which can be done by a qualified flooring technician.

GENERAL TIPS: HARDWOOD AND SEASONS
Wood floors will be slightly affected by varying levels of humidity within your building. To make sure the floors are protected for as long as possible, it is important to keep the relative humidity levels between 35% - 55%. Below are some recommendations on how to achieve that in the different seasons:

• Wet/Humid (wood expands): Heaters are not generally used during these months. Therefore the floor holds in the humidity and expands. To maintain a proper humidity level, use a dehumidifier or air conditioner. You can also turn on your heater every once in a while during the summer months – this will help lower the humidity in the building. Make sure the expansion space is not blocked in any way!
• Dry (wood contracts/shrinks): Wood-burning stoves and electric heating systems are used a lot during winter months – creating very dry conditions indoors. The low humidity causes the wood to contract and shrink – leaving gaps between individual boards. To prevent this, use a humidifier to keep the humidity level between 35% - 55%.